First true-summit ascent of the 8,000ers
Who
Ed Viesturs
What
12 May 2005 first
Where
Nepal ()
When

The first person to make true-summit climbs of all 14 of Earth's mountains over 8,000 m (24,247 ft) is Edmund "Ed" Viesturs (USA), between 18 May 1989 and 12 May 2005. He notably made all of his climbs – under the banner "Endeavour 8000" – without the use of supplementary oxygen.


Viesturs – who has also made seven ascents of Everest – was awarded this title retroactively in 2023, following research into historical climbs of the 8,000ers by a number of mountain chroniclers, among them Eberhard Jurgalski of 8,000ers.com. It was deemed that at least three of the 14 peaks had not been correctly identified for many years, resulting in climbers – usually through no fault of their own – stopping short of the top. Viesturs was the first alpinist to be confirmed as reaching the true summits.