- Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto
- 6:20 day(s):hour(s)
- Nepal ()
Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto (Chile) summited two peaks over 8,000 m (26,246 ft) without the use of bottled oxygen in a total time of 6 days 20 hours. He first climbed Lhotse (8,516 m; 27,940 ft), reaching the peak at 3.00 p.m. on 16 May 2019, and then summited Everest (8,848 m; 29,029 ft) at 11.30 a.m. on 23 May.
There are 14 mountain peaks on Earth that exceed an altitude of 8,000 m (26,246 ft) but there is a considerable gap between the fifth and sixth peaks, hence the identification of the "Higher Eight-thousanders". These five peaks are Everest (8,848 m), K2 (8,611 m), Kangchenjunga (8,586 m), Lhotse (8,516 m) and Makalu (8,485 m).
The traverse between Everest and Lhotse was made via Base Camp 2, which is shared by both mountains.Prieto bettered the double-header time of 7 days achieved by Anatoli Boukreev (b. Russian SFSR on 16 January 1958, d. 25 December 1997), who crossed from the top of Everest to the top of Lhotse without the aid of bottled oxygen between 10 and 17 May 1996.