Guinness World Records 2015 - page 12

Great journeys
Fastest time to climb the
Seven Summits (both lists)
Vernon Tejas (USA) climbed the combined
Kosciuszko and Carstensz lists of summits,
beginning with Vinson Massif on 18 Jan 2010
and ending with McKinley, aka Denali, on
31 May 2010. This musically minded climber
has also played guitar on top of each of the
summits and at the North and South poles.
First ascent of Nanga Parbat
via the Mazeno Ridge
In 1953, Hermann Buhl (AUT) became the
first
person to climb Nanga Parbat
– the ninth-
highest mountain, situated in the Himalayas at
8,125 m (26,656 ft). It was not until 15 Jul 2012
that it was ascended via the technically difficult
Mazeno Ridge or west-southwest route – one
of the most demanding challenges in alpinism –
by Sandy Allan and Rick Allen (both UK).
First to summit
Annapurna via
the south face
(female)
Wanda Rutkiewicz
(POL) reached the
peak of Annapurna
(8,091 m; 26,545 ft)
from the south face
in the Himalayas,
Nepal, on 22 Oct 1991.
Rutkiewicz was also
the
first woman to
ascend K2
, doing
so on 23 Jun 1986.
150
FIRST…
Person to climb
the Seven Summits
The highest mountains
on each of the continents
are known as the “Seven
Summits” (see table). Two
lists have been compiled: the
“Bass list”, which includes
Mount Kosciuszko in New
South Wales, Australia, and
the more difficult “Messner
list”, which recognizes
Oceania’s highest point as
Puncak Jaya in Indonesia.
Patrick Morrow (CAN)
completed the Messner
list on 5 Aug 1986 with a
summit of Puncak Jaya.
Woman to climb
the Seven Summits
On 28 Jun 1992, Junko Tabei
(JPN) topped Puncak Jaya,
completing Messner’s list.
Tabei also recorded the
first
ascent of Everest by a
woman
, when she climbed
it on 16 May 1975.
It took Vanessa O’Brien
(USA) 295 days to climb
both Messner’s and
Bass’s list – the
fastest
Seven Summits ascent
(female)
. Vanessa began
with Everest on 19 May 2012
and finished on Kilimanjaro
on 10 Mar 2013.
Person to climb
all 8,000‑m mountains
Reinhold Messner (ITA)
began his quest to climb
First ascent
of Puncak Jaya
The 4,884-m-high
(16,024-ft) peak of
Puncak Jaya, aka
Carstensz Pyramid,
in Indonesia was first
topped by Heinrich
Harrer (AUT), Philip
Temple, Russell
Kippax (both NZ) and
Albertus Huizenga
(NLD). The team
reached the summit
on 13 Feb 1962. It is
considered the most
difficult of the Seven
Summits to climb.
THE SEVEN SUMMITS
As with many mountaineering distinctions, the definition of the “Seven Summits” is disputed.
Some climbers include Kosciuszko in Australia over Carstensz. Others place Elbrus within the
borders of Asia, and thus regard Mount Blanc as Europe’s highest mountain.
Continent
Mountain
Location
Height First climbed
Africa
Kilimanjaro
Tanzania
5,895 m 6 Oct 1889
Antarctica
Vinson Massif
Antarctica
4,892 m 18 Dec 1966
Asia
Everest
Nepal/China 8,848 m 29 May 1953
Australasia Puncak Jaya, aka Carstensz
Indonesia
4,884 m 13 Feb 1962
Europe
Elbrus
Russia
5,642 m 27 Jul 1874
North America McKinley, aka Denali
USA
6,194 m 7 Jun 1913
South America Aconcagua
Argentina
6,962 m 14 Jan 1897
Source:
Mountaineering
The Seven Summits’ combined height is the equivalent of
113 Eiffel Towers
each of the 14 mountains
higher than 8,000 m
(26,246 ft) in Jun 1970. He
completed the feat with a
summit of Lhotse, on the
Nepal­‑Tibet border, on
16 Oct 1986. The feat is
so difficult that as of 25 Apr
2014 – nearly 30 years
later – only 32 people
had successfully tackled
all 14 mountains.
Woman to climb
all 8,000‑m mountains
On 17 May 2010, Edurne
Pasaban Lizarribar (ESP)
completed her climb of the
14 mountains over 8,000 m
(undisputed) by summitting
Shisha Pangma in Tibet.
A month earlier, Oh Eun-Sun
(KOR) had claimed this title,
but doubt was cast on one
of her summits and her
record remains disputed.
The
first woman to
summit all 8,000ers
without bottled
oxygen
was Gerlinde
Kaltenbrunner (AUT) on
23 Aug 2011.
Person to complete the
Explorers’ Grand Slam
The Explorers’ Grand
Slam comprises climbing
the Seven Summits,
the 14 mountains over
8,000 m and trekking to
the North and South poles
on foot. Park Young-Seok
(KOR) began by climbing
Everest on 16 May 1993 and
completed the feat when
he reached the North Pole
on 30 Apr 2005. Sadly,
Park died in Oct 2011 on
Annapurna, renowned
as the world’s
deadliest
mountain
.
Ascent of K2
On 31 Jul 1954, Italians
Achille Compagnoni and
Lino Lacedelli completed
the first ascent of K2, which
at 8,611 m (28,251 ft) is the
world’s second-highest
mountain. K2 is situated in
the Karakoram range, on
the border between Pakistan
and China.
Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL)
became the
first woman to
climb K2
on 23 Jun 1986.
Russia’s Andrew Mariev
and Vadim Popovich
completed the
first ascent
of K2’s west face
, on
21 Aug 2007, after a gruelling
10-week climb. The pair –
led by Viktor Kozlov (RUS)
– conquered this notoriously
vicious face and reached
the peak without the use
of supplementary oxygen.
Ascent of Kangchenjunga
The third-highest mountain
(8,586 m; 28,169 ft) was first
climbed on 25 May 1955
by George Band and Joe
Brown (both UK).
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